This place is total paradise - exactly what we had been searching for.
We stayed in a bamboo hut on the riverside, containing two beds and nothing else - but for USD 1 per night we weren't complaining! The bathroom was basic and the shower absolutely freezing, so we mainly washed in the river like the locals.
Although the village had electricity, it was used sparingly and more often than not did not work. The best part about it was that there were no motor vehicles - to get around people walked, cycled or rowed - it was incredible. I have never been anywhere without at least a couple of motor bikes.
We walked to 2 other villages, through rice paddies and fields, along really scenic paths and through streams. We met farmers, local children and buffalos! It was amazing. It was a really hot day but the walk was easy and we had lunch in one of the nearby villages - just perfect. We also hired kayaks, which proved to be a bit more challenging! The current was really quite strong, and we decided to go against it first, so that the way back would be easier. Well, after about 15 minutes, we must have gone about 20 metres (I'm exaggerating, but still, it wasn't much more!)and it was really hard going. We then arrived at some nasty looking rapids, so decided to get out and carry the kayak beside them. I don't know if you have ever been kayaking before but a kayak is VERY VERY HEAVY! I thought my arms were going to drop off. But when we moored on a tiny bit of sand and lay down to dry off and relax, even I had to admit that it was stunning. Not a person in sight, just nature. The way back was a lot more fun as we just drifted along with the current.
One of the highlights for me was when we accompanied a local man and his son on a fishing trip. The technique was very traditional - we were in a small narrowboat and every now and then the guy would throw his net into the water, then wade in to see if he had caught anything. With this technique he only caught small fish. To catch the larger fish he had a longer net with a stone tied to one end that he would lower into the water as we rowed around in a circle. When the net was fully laid out we rowed round in the circle again, this time whacking a stick made of bamboo into the water to scare the fish. We ended up catching about 15 fish, including one fairly large one. We then went onto the river bank where the guy (Mr Khan) and his son shook orange trees to collect oranges, before heading to a tiny island to cook the fish over a fire and drink the oranges - it was sheer bliss. I really didn't think that I would enjoy fishing, but I have to say that I was most pleasantly surprised - it was amazing.
When we were not off on one of our activities, we spent our time relaxing in the hammacks at the guest house and chatting to the other guests. They were a really friendly bunch and we had a great laugh.
The night time was incredible - it was dark by 6pm but there were so many stars in the sky (more than I have seen anywhere before) that it was almost light enough to see. We would lay in the hammacks, looking at the stars and listening to the frogs in the river below - the only sound to be heard. It really was bliss.
Needless to say we really didn't want to leave, but we had a flight to book to Chiang Mai in Thailand and there was no internet service here - damn it! The journey back took a lot less time that on the way out, but was even more uncomfortable as the truck was rammed full - we even had people sitting down the middle.
We ended up staying a few days in Luang Prabang on our return from the village, before heading off for new adventures in Thailand. |
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